We drove back from Ha Long Bay to Hanoi and boarded an overnight sleeper train bound for Hue. We had some misgivings about this train as some of the reviews listed a catalogue of horrors, including overflowing, rancid toilets, and infestations of cockroaches and rats. The idea of rats didn’t particularly bother us as we’ve been dealing with them for months at home, but cockroaches? Not a fan, having seen an enormous one, close up and personal in one of the hotel rooms, they do avoid people though, so again wasn’t that worried.
The other issue that concerned us was that we’d be sharing our berth with a couple of strangers, and kids travel free so it may have ended up somewhat crowded.
The train arrived and departed on time, and when we boarded, it was spotless. The toilet on our carriage wasn’t flushing, but was dealt with immediately. There were also two beautifully clean sinks, which would have been trashed if I hadn’t repeatedly moved other peoples’ rubbish, mainly Europeans. This was irritating given there was a litter bin. We also had a guard on each carriage, and there was neither sight nor sound of cockroaches or rats.
We ended up sharing with a young couple from from Sweden, and had a lovely evening trading travelling stories, and I slept like a baby!
Day market teeming with delicious veggies.
Hue, the ancient capital, was certainly interesting. It was less hectic than Hanoi, but still busy, busy, busy, the odd thing was, we had now acclimatized to it all and were no longer worried about crossing roads! 
A rather beautiful dragonfly.
I’d love a gate like this, a hobbits’ gate? It was in the grounds of Thien Mu Pagoda.
Travelling from Hue to Hoi An over the Hai Van pass, was certainly memorable! Talk about a white knuckle ride! We held our breath for most of this trip.
This route takes you on a scenic road winding through the mountains above the East Sea, on the central coast.
Apparently the Hai Van Pass was popularized by Top Gear, in a Vietnam Special, they, however, did it in the sunshine, unlike us who did it in thick fog and rain. In these conditions it was utterly terrifying, you couldn’t see a damn thing until the oncoming traffic was literally upon you. We saw a truck that had crashed on the narrow winding, steep roads.
We stopped at the top, a forced break!!
The views we did see were breathtaking! Mist and clouds across sheer mountains…..talk about terror and awe!
Hoi An
Our hotel was in this lane, overlooking the river, a quiet area where the locals live.
A charming town that is rapidly becoming a major tourist attraction. A local told us that ten years ago it was really quiet, that there was only one pub and the locals came out each night to play music around the river. Now it’s a hub of activity.
It’s called the city of lanterns.
At night it looks like this.
A view of Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City, from the air.
After leaving Hoi An, we took a flight from De Nang to Saigon. I have to say that De Dang airport is far more civilized than Manchester or Liverpool! Easy peasy!
Notre Dame Cathedral, Saigon.
Swifts nests in the Opera House, Saigon.
The Old Post Office, Saigon.
I have to say that I missed the VN I had become accustomed to when visiting Saigon. Suddenly I was in a large, cosmopolitan, international city that could have been anywhere. It was still busy, the traffic still crazy, but far more orderly.
I was delighted to see the VN I was used to the minute we reached the outskirts of the city. There were the familiar tall, narrow houses, crowded pavements filled with food vendors, motorbikes and chickens roaming everywhere.
Injuries to date.
Whatever bit me here has never sampled me before. This rash lasted a week! I was beginning to worry….
Ten bites from unknown creatures that won’t stop bleeding. Only about ten mozzie bites, it’s not the season for the blighters in the north, the south is a different story!
One sprained ankle/torn tendon, still hobbling day six.
Random observations/figuring things out.
Noise wise, cockerels outdo dogs at night, they continue to crow long after the dogs give up barking.
People keep birds in tiny cages absolutely everywhere, tradition apparently, that needs to change.
Anything that moves can be eaten, the words of a local.
The street food vendors have tiny stools for two reasons. They can fit more people in and move the stools quickly when the police turn up as they are trading illegally. I’m with the vendors!
Houses are built tall and narrow to avoid paying heavy taxes, the wider they are the more they cost.
Animals roam free everywhere. I’ve seen cattle crossing motorways, and goats on railway lines, and not a person in sight. The cats hide.
I haven’t seen any wildlife in north VN, apart from Ha Long Bay. Apparently, even the forests are silent. I can’t imagine that.
I do believe all the birds have been eaten.
And finally…..
There be dogs everywhere in VN, a dog at the stopover at the Hai Van pass.
Hi Dear Dina,
I am in France but have been following your wonderful travelogue. I just haven’t had time to respond. You write so well and through your writings I learn so much. Thank you…and continue to enjoy and have a very safe trip home.
Janet xxxxxxx
Your poor leg looks as though a spider might have stopped by. I’m glad to hear it’s clearing up. Being a bit hobbled is never fun when traveling, but you’ve done well, and the photos of such a variety of experiences are just fabulous. I’m no fan of driving in fog generally, and adding a mountain only would make it even more terrifying. But you survived — onward!
It’s exciting and awe inspiring to follow this adventure… even if I’m only reading about it. I’m sure I wouldn’t have had the courage for such an adventure even 30 years ago. Both of you are real heroes to me, and I look forward to more pictures and accounts. This trip is fantastic.
Well, I’m glad to hear the trains are nice. In all our trips in Europe and Japan, train travel has been a big plus. The absence of birds is disturbing.
I am thoroughly enjoying your Vietnam adventures. Thanks so much for sharing them while you are travelling.
I don’t think I’d have enjoyed the drive over the Hai Van Pass either, sounds terrifying! I like to be able to see where I’m going! But I love the hobbit gate and am wondering whether I could make similar out of tree branch prunings. 😀 (Just joking!) How creepy that the forests are silent. I really wouldn’t like that – a world without birdsong would be very sad.
You seem to be suffering for your travel experiences. Martyn once volunteered to hold a hissing cockroach called Dave at Doncaster Wildlife Park but wasn’t overly impressed when it fancied hiding up his sleeve, I had the task of photographing it which which meant being far closer than I would have preferred.
You’re generously taking us on your super expedition, probably doing things some of us won’t ever do, though, some of us might think about doing some of it!
The terrifying road journey was so reminiscent of journeys we have driven, to get home on on Scottish roads, with similar geography and geology, similar weather conditions, and similar accidents too. A N D, you are driving on the ‘wrong side’ of the road as well…wow, I take my winter hat off to you!! The circumstances of such a drive is very tiring and a driver can easily switch into automatism—–not a good idea. This is when the front seat passenger just has to remain alert, this also can be rather difficult. I really felt the sensations of this road trip. Well done both of you!
You are experiencing such a variation of environments. It’s super exploration.
xxxx
Hmmm, I wouldn’t be so sure that cockroaches avoid people, I was told this too, yet one still managed to crawl up Mick’s leg in a bar in Tenerife. My mum actually woke up with one in bed with her in Grand Canaria, ughhh. I enjoyed reading all your random observations, it’s these little snippits which are so interesting and give you a real feel for the place. I hope your bites and injuries heal soon. Enjoy the rest of your trip.
A most enjoyable, and interesting, read and wonderful pictures. You certainly do have some adventures on your travels abroad. Take care. xx
I’m so envious of your sleeper train! I love them – we went on one in Thailand and it was one of the best night’s sleep I’ve had; like being rocked to sleep. Your foggy trip looks terrifying though and I hope your rash clears up soon. Travel safe. xx
Thanks for keeping us up to date with your travels. The train looks like it would be a good experience. Hope your bites are soon completely better.
You are missing all the snow at home, in the SW we have a red snow warning. Blizzards forecast today and overnight and minus temperatures day and night, you are in the better place!
Hoi An looks absolutely charming! the sort of place I’d like to live.
You’re certainly getting around and I really enjoy these photos where you focus on little bits of beauty rather than humungous great ‘sites’. Love the swift nests – hope the swifts don’t get eaten any time soon. That rash looks very dramatic. Hugs! xx
Wow, so many adventures! The train looked comfy and clean; glad it was! The misty ride on twisty hills took more courage than I have, but the views you managed to see probably eased the terror a bit. 😁
I liked the opera house and other Saigon scenes, but would probably enjoy the countryside more.
Wow, that bite rash looks ferocious! Glad it cleared up for you, Dina!
Safe travels and happy adventures! Thanks for the vicarious and mysterious journey! Please let me know the dogs are safe, and I hope those poor birds will be set free!
Thanks Kitty, the dogs seem to have owners but roam the streets, some have injuries and mange and some are thin but in the main they seem to get enough to eat. I will look into supporting a rescue when I get home, in Saigon there seem to be some good ones that rescue dogs and send them abroad for adoption. Oh yes…..Me too re those poor cages birds. Heartbreaking to see.xxxx